Bring On The Sun

Brian Cheong has a date with the sun, sea and sand of magical Langkawi. With photography by Chong Wei Hong.


With the east coast mired in the monsoon season, the fabled 99-archipelago Langkawi in the northwest seems like a natural choice for a romantic beach escapade until a piece of bad news lands in my inbox. “It’s been nothing but wet (in Langkawi),” goes the email.

But as we alight from the plane, the sun is blazing, the sky a brilliant blue. After securing a car from the rental booth at the airport – this is important if you plan to see more than your hotel – we drive straight to Berjaya Langkawi Beach & Spa Resort (Burau Bay, 07000 Langkawi, Kedah; T +604 9591 888; W www.berjayahotels-resorts.com/langkawi.htm ) where we have booked one of the new Premier Chalets on Water.

Even though it is high season, traffic is pleasant and smooth. The thing about Langkawi is that for a popular island destination, it never feels crowded – unlike, say, Phuket. Also, it is not isolated to the point that you find yourself with nothing to do after a couple of days.

We have chosen Berjaya Langkawi because it is located in a sheltered bay amidst gorgeous surroundings. The majestic 500-year-old Mount Machinchang looms overhead with the idyllic sea close to its foot, creating a setting that any feng shui master would approve of.

We make our way through a lush tropical forest to reach our chalet, spying a group of playful monkeys en route. The gentle sound of waves lapping the shore greets us as the buggy pulls to a halt at its door.

The well-appointed chalet – with marble flooring! – that is built on stilts over the sea also boasts a balcony for private outdoor lounging by the sea. But with all that nature around us, we do not stay indoors for too long.

Mat Chinchang’s towering allure proves too much to resist, so we decide to tackle that first. The resort’s internal buggy service also shuttles guests to the nearby Oriental Village, which is touted as an Asian-themed cultural park with, funnily enough, Kuala Lumpur street names. One also begins the ascent up Mat Chinchang, part of the island’s extraordinary Geopark, here. The award-winning Panorama Langkawi Cable Car (T +604 9594 225; W www.langkawicablecar.com.my ; Fares are RM 15 (Malaysian adults) and RM 5 (Malaysian children ages 3-12); RM 25 (foreign adult visiors) and RM 18 (foreign child visitors ages 3-12) spans 2.2 km in length and takes about 20 mins to reach the summit.

But the ride will feel much shorter, as you will be spellbound by the glorious view of Langkawi’s southwestern coastline. As cameras click merrily away, the air also becomes cooler, enhancing an already wonderful experience.

More Kodak moments await at the summit where the sprawling view of the Andaman Sea in the north also highlights Langkawi’s proximity to Thailand. We manage to pry our eyes away long enough to make our way towards the stunning suspended bridge that snakes from the summit station into the valley. As we walk the length of this state-of-the-art structure, we are rewarded with a bird’s-eye-view of the greenery that unfolds directly beneath us.

We feel a tad sorry that we have to return to ground level but not for long as we have spa treatments awaiting at the resort’s Ayura Spa. This quiet sanctuary that boasts a pool with Jacuzzi jets as its centrepiece and enveloped in lush greenery is just what the doctor ordered.

We opt for the company of nature with bamboo blinds offering that essential bit of privacy. Rustling foliage, gurgling water and the occasional chatter of crickets are our sensory companions. We could not have asked for a more blissful afternoon.

Since we are staying at a beach resort, it seems only natural to make dinner reservations at, where else but, the Beach Restaurant. We take our seats at the edge of an extended balcony to take advantage of the view. With the salty sea breeze to work up an appetite, dinner is suitably sumptuous and leisurely.

We cannot wait to call it a night, knowing that we will be sleeping “on” the sea but not before we take a slow – if slightly longer than expected – walk under the stars back to our chalet.

Early the next morning, breakfast comes a-calling at the door, as the butler arrives to set up the meal on the balcony. There is something magical about having your first cuppa of the day while still snugly wrapped in a bathrobe and watching the sun cast its first rays of gold on the waves.

We set of on a nature walk with Dev (Dev’s Adventure Tours T + 6019 4949 193; W www.langkawi-nature.com) for an insight into the resort’s flora and fauna. The walk introduces the many plants indigenous to the island, including the keruing, which is the dominant tree in Langkawi. But if it is animal sightings that you are after, join Dev for the after dark nature walk when most animals emerge to forage for food. Still, we are rewarded with the sighting of a flying lemur that someone in the group mistakes for a beehive!

Invigorated, we head to Telaga Tujuh (or Seven Wells) that is about a five-minute drive away. This waterfall cascades down a hillside via seven pools – hence its name – but to get to the top pool one has to climb a really long flight of stairs.

The climb is arduous and we have to stop a few times to catch our breath. But once we reach our goal, we are rewarded with a rather spectacular panorama even if the waterfall itself is a little underwhelming. We take the opportunity to soak our complaining feet in the refreshingly cold water of one of the pools and we immediately feel as the world is right again.

No trip to Langkawi is complete without shopping for duty-free goods. For this, we venture into Kuah, not just for a spot of retail therapy but also to tuck into some cheap and cheerful Chinese food.

Later that evening, through an arrangement with the resort, we hop onto a private catamaran at Awana Porto Malai for a romantic sunset cruise that takes us close to Pulau Dayang Bunting. It is, in short, a beautiful way to cap the day.

The following morning, we decide to take it easy. With our books and iPods in hands, we spend the day lounging by the pool, taking walks on the beach and swimming in the sea. The occasional spirited game of beach volleyball also offers a good distraction.

We decide to attempt dinner at the Perdana Quay, which is a mere five-minute drive from the resort. This trendy spot boasts a variety of fare, from fancy Italian (Mare Blu, B5-6, Perdana Quay, Telaga Harbour Park, Pantai Kok, 07000 Langkawi; T +604 959 3830; E tarmizi@mareblu.com.my) to hearty Chinese seafood (Pulau-Pulau Restaurant & Steamboat, G-12, Perdana Quay, Telaga Harbour Park, Pantai Kok, 07000 Langkawi; T +604 9594 089). After having our fill, we take a drive to Pantai Cenang, popular with budget-conscious travellers, for post-dinner drinks at one of the many beach bars.

All too soon, it is time to say goodbye. The weather has been kind, the sights unforgettable and the shopping even better. After all these years, Langkawi remains a good bet for a quick weekend getaway.

Courtesy of Zero Degrees Magazine